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Beni Fuji Onsen

September 18, 2017
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In celebration of my first clicks from Japan, I would like to enlighten you about one of my travel highlights in this beautiful country: Beni Fuji Onsen. 

What can I say. Months have passed, and I still can’t get over this view:

But more than Fujisan rising out of the steam I vividly remember the little details. The dark brown carpet. The shoe lockers. The Fuji-shaped rice crackers with a bit of sweet icing, just the right amount. I went back for them twice.

There are no foreigners. Don’t ask me why. I tended to find these places, or they found me. I think it must be one of the best spas in Japan, just for the view alone. Also, for 800 Yen it is really affordable considering that you can spend all day watching TV in the sauna if you like. There is also a steam bath, jacuzzi and the two breathtaking outdoor pools with THE view.

Onsening in Japan is gender segregated and everyone is completely naked. Get used to it. Inside the bathing area, there is no real place to rest except from in the water of course. In the common area there is a cafeteria with the charm of a hospital eatery but the food is really good and it’s open until 9 pm. Again, what else do you need. I had a ramen, obviously . Mr. M had something more substantial and a beer. Yes, they had beer. Five minutes before closing we went down to the souvenir shop and I showed him the Fuji rice crackers. The lady at the cashier was counting the money already, but I was able to buy one more package. I thought I would keep them forever but ate them in a rush of Japan nostalgia on the train to Berlin.

If I ever make it back to Japan, my first trip from Tokyo will lead to Beni Fuji Onsen, that’s for sure.


Logistics: The long distance bus runs frequently from Shinjuku bus terminal in Tokyo to Yamanakako and costs 2050 Yen, around 20€. The closest bus stop is in Yamanakako town right by the traffic light and the 7/11.

Alternatively, you can take the train to Kawaguchiko, hang out there and take either the local bus or the same highway bus passing through from the train station to Yamanakako village. More info here.

If you want to stay in Yamanakako for the night, make it Hotorinite guest house. Trust me on that one. Because what can possibly top breakfast in the bonsai viewing room?! Exactly, only a day at Beni Fuji Onsen.

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